Passe-Partout jewel (1939)

Patented in 1938, the Passe-Partout jewel is a remarkable example of the transformative pieces pioneered by Van Cleef & Arpels. Designed to adapt to its wearer’s mood, it was the perfect creation for modern women who wanted to be able to match their jewelry to different clothes and situations. It was one of the Maison’s best-known pieces throughout the late 1930s and 1940s.

The Passe-Partout jewel is based on an ingenious technical innovation. Hidden by two flower clips, a system of metal rails enables a flexible yellow gold snake chain to slide in and out, transforming the piece into a necklace, a choker, an opera-length necklace, a bracelet, or a belt. The flowers can also be worn alone as clips. On some models, they can also be worn as earclips.

This jewel always had floral designs, as you can see from this 1939 example in which the colorful flowers feature rubies and aquamarines.