Bellflower clip (1969)

This Bellflower leaf clip is an iconic example of how Van Cleef & Arpels has been interpreting nature since 1906.

Have a look at its asymmetry and curving edges which give the feeling that they are about to jingle. They convey a sense of vitality, elevated by the interplay between Mystery Set sapphires and diamonds. With its pure, elegant design, this creation exemplifies the Maison's taste for stylized representation of blossoming wonders. Signature motifs amongst Van Cleef & Arpels’ in the 1960s, Mystery Set floral jewelry pairing emeralds or rubies with diamonds also delighted clients.

As you contemplate the flower in front of you, you might be wondering how the sapphires are fixed to the piece without any visible prongs to hold them… In fact, this is the secret of the Mystery Set, a technique in which individually hand-cut precious stones are placed one by one into a system of gold rails, "mysteriously" hiding their mounting. This creates a velvety effect within the piece and increases the intensity of the colored precious stones.

The technique was patented in 1933, and after originally being only used on flat surfaces (such as the tops of powder cases), the Mystery Set began to be applied to more intricate, voluminous surfaces in 1935, starting with the Flower and Leaf clips. The 1969 Bellflower clip in the display is thus a testament to Van Cleef & Arpels' ongoing, evolving history.